Matterhorn
New solo route on Picco Muzio

April 2011

On Matterhorn I had climbed the first solo ascent of the Casarotti Grassi route, the Deffeyes, the Direttissima as well as the Spigolo dei Fiori route. I had climbed alone where others had done it with one or more climbing partners and I succeeded. These routes had been opened by other alpinists therefore they were repeats and it was clear that if I wanted to live a different experience, a developing and emotionally rewarding one for my career, I had to go further and open a new solo route.
Opening a new solo route is a very hard task, especially from a mental point of view. It entails more difficulties and uncertainties especially on Matterhorn, where the typical loose rock is an added difficulty. To climb where nobody has been there before is a challenge since there aren’t any references, any lines to follow and any information on the tools and gear you need.
On the south face of the Matterhorn there was the last big alpinist challenge and therefore I decided that this could be my chance to live a new experience of vertical life. With this first ascent, I started the Exploring the Alps project, a trilogy whose objective was to open three new routes on the highest mountains of Valle D’Aosta, Mt Blanc, Mount Rosa and Matterhorn. The project had to be accomplished over one year and I would attempt the climbs with different partners and different styles.