Three untouched peaks
and the attempt to the North face of Ogre

July 2012

After five expeditions to Pakistan, where I’ve climbed untouched peaks and new routes up to 7000 m in different areas of the Karakorum, I think that there is no other place like that one visited during my last trip. A geographical area at a Himalayan altitude, similar to the Antarctica, with weather conditions typical of Patagonia (or at least as they were last summer) which can render difficult and treacherous even an apparently easy ascent.
A place where even in July and August the approach to the foot of the mountains is made only on skis and the equipment has to be dragged on a sled like in Alaska. An area which is unique to all the Karakorum and probably also to the entire Himalaya range because of its particular features which, in its own name “Snow Lake”, could not find a better description.
I only regret the missed opportunity of attempting Ogre’s untouched north face, because of the heavy snowfalls.
During the 13 days of good weather, out of a total 32 days at base camp, we tried to acclimatize, climbing only wherever we could (four mountains in all, three of which were untouched), devoting ourselves to record with photos and videos the images of an alpine area not experienced yet by most. I really hope that one day this enchanted place might become a sought-after destination for many other climbers.

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