First ascent of Bekka Brakai Chhok 6970 m

August 2008

After a short acclimatization on the Batokshi peak 6,050 m I achieved my first ascent of Beka Brakai Chhok 6,970 m with Simone Moro, my climbing partner in that third expedition to Karakorum.
A speed climb faced up with little equipment: a rope, four titanium pegs, six ice screws, a litre and a half of tea and four energy bars. An ascent we thought we could make over a day, leaving from an advanced base camp at 4,700 m to the summit and then coming back down. However, we bivouacked without a tent, a sleeping bag and a stove at an altitude of approximately 6,800m, reaching the summit “only” the following day. But the difficult bivvy along with the sensations of cold, hunger and thirst, shared with a partner like Simone are indeed, the best memories of this expedition.