Hervé Barmasse

“You don’t conquer mountains, they decide to make themselves know and climb. If you are lucky and sensible enough, perhaps thay will steal you something such as time, dreams, heart and give you great emotions

Hervè Barmasse was born in Aosta on 21st December 1977. Mountaineering is in his blood, in fact, he is the fourth generation of his family to become an alpine guide. Thirty-eight years old and a member of The North Face Global Team, he is one of best climbers on the international scene. Hervé prefers solo climbing – as Reinhold Messner affirms, this is the purest and most difficult style to use when confronting the mountains. Hervé is the only climber to have soloed the 1500m South Face of the Matterhorn and, after Walter Bonatti, is the only person to have established a new route on the same mountain, solo.
Not only did he accomplish great feats on his home mountains, but on his numerous expeditions outside of Europe, conquering virgin peaks and unclimbed walls that were commonly regarded as unscalable, such as his first ever ascent of 6970 m Beka Brakay Chhok in Pakistan and the smooth granite walls of Cerro Piergiorgio in Patagonia. Neither must we forget his notable first ascents in Asia, the Alps and South America that have earned him countless prizes and awards. Currently, he is the only four-time winner of the coveted Paolo Consiglio Prize.
Besides being a mountaineer, Hervé is an alpine guide instructor, ski instructor, helicopter rescue specialist, film-maker, photographer and director of the films Linea Continua (2010) and Not so far (2012). Both films have won major international awards.

In May 2015, The mountain inside,  his first literary work, was published by Laterza. It is a book in which Hervé tells about himself, his history, the passion, the effort and the thrill of climbing. A book in which the man comes before the mountaineer, in spite of his facing extraordinary feats. In its pages, rather than the obvious excitement of a champion of the extreme, we find what lies behind the adventure of mountaineering, where the courage of taking decisions is always entangled with fragility and fear,  on the wall as well as in life..

“Some time ago I said that mountaineering had failed, but today I say no, that’s not true, because there are young people like Herve Barmasse.
He is able to find adventure also in the Alps and not only in the Himalayas or in Patagonia. The young like him defend the true values of traditional mountaineering. Some time ago I said that we would have missed those young people who had made a mountaineering culture, but today I say no, they are not disappeared”
.
Reinhold Messner



Formation

National Instructor Alpine Guides since 2007
Mountain guide since 2000
Operator of the Aosta Valley Mountain Rescue since 2000
Ski instructor since 1996 and snowboards since 1997
Federal Coach of skiing since 1998

 

Professional experiences

Director, produced and starred in the documentary film, Not so far (year 2012).
Director, produced and starred in the documentary film Linea Continua (2010).
Performer of the part of Emilio Comici in the film “Antonia” Directed by Ferdinando Cito Filomarino Frenesy Film Company.
Photographer – Publications for major magazines including mountain Alpinist, Desnivel, Meridiani Montagne, Alpin – Collaboration with Canon Italy in 2014.
Author, director of photography and co-producer of the film “Matterhorn, a mountain in the world” Directed by Nicolò Bongiorno.
Rapporteur –  Motivational Speech for managers and agents Lindt – September 2015
Rapporteur – Motivational Speech by the management company Gilead Sciences – January 2014.
Rapporteur – Motivational Speech by the management and the employees of Deval Spa – year 2013.

Author, director and rapporteur in conferences organized by local governments, by sections of the Alpine Club and the Film Festival among which include:
Teplice, Czech Republic – August 2013;
Trento Film Festival 2012 edition;
Mendi Film Festival 2011 edition;
Bilbao, Basque Country, Spain – December 2011;
Zakopane, Poland in August 2011;
Barcelona (Spain) The North Face Speaker Series – December 2012;
Torello, Spain – October 2012.
Mussoorie, India – November 2012
New Delhi, India – Italian embassy Conference – November 2012

Presenter with Reinhold Messner the evening event “150-100-50-0: Stories of climbers of the Matterhorn and the War”, May 8, 2015 – Trento Film Festival in 2015.
Juror at the 63th edition of the Trento Film Festival – from 30 April to 10 May 2015. Rapporteur and official speaker at the International Mountain Summit in Bressanone for the year 2012 and 2014.
Anchor for the program “Qui Montagne” spread on regional RAI Aosta Valley – 2004/2005 edition.Professor of “Alpine culture and the basics of mountaineering” for the training course “Managers mountain hut” at the Confartigianato of Aosta (2009).
Business consultant in the outdoor industry.
Conferences mountaineering and business in Italy and in the world.

MOUNTAINEERING AWARDS

Award Sport and Civility 2015
Adventure Awards 2014
Paolo Consiglio Award 2010
Paolo Consiglio Award 2008
Paolo Consiglio Award 2006
Paolo Consiglio Award 2005
Monzino Award 2010
SAT Award – Mountaineering category 2010
Riconoscimento speciale della giuria al premio Cassin 2008
Saint Vincent Grolla d’Or Award 2007

 

FILM AWARDS

Linea Continua
First Prize – International Competition video makers
AWARD TeleTicino 2011 – FESTIVAL OF LUGANO – Switzerland – September 2011

Best Short Film – 4th Festival Internacional De Cine De Montana
Ushuaia SHH – Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego, Argentina – August 2011

Special Jury Mention, Section “Paesaggi d’Italia”
Orobie Film Festival – Bergamo, Italia – February 2011

Special Jury Mention – Mountain Film Festival Domzale
Slovenia – April 2012

Italian Alpin Club Award Memorial Giorgio Gualco – “Terre Alte… Emozioni dal mondo”
International Mountain Film Festival – Milano, Italia – october 2012

***
Not so far
Best Mountaineering Film Award
Mountain Film Festival, Domzale, Slovenia – April 2013

Award Best Mountain Film
XVI Vertical Festival Film Competition, Moscow – April 2013

Public award
Cervino Cinemountain International Film Festival – August 2012

Award Best Mountain Film
Festival Internacionale De Cine De Montana – Argentina –August 2013

Award Best Mountain Film
9th Ikafest Mountain Film Festival 2013 – Lima, Perù – August 2013

 

FILM AWARDS

Leggimontagne Award 2015
Hervé Barmasse is given the Leggimontagna 2015 award for La Montagna Dentro published by Laterza.

Hervé Barmasse – Summary of main ascents

December 2014
Grandes Murailles: New route Bon Noel

March 2014
Matterhorn – First winter enchainement of the four Matterhorn ridges. He made the encheinment alone.

August 2013
Patagonia – Winter season – First winter ascent of Cerro Pollone and First ascent of Colmillos middle and nord.

July 2012
Pakistan, Sing Gang Glacier/Snow Lake area. 3 First ascent of the mountain. First ascent and traverse of Muky peak 6330 m, first ascent and descent of the mountain 5966 m on the left bank of Sing Gang Glacier and first ascent of a easy and hidden peak of Solu Tower Group.

April 2011
Matterhorn South Face – Hervé Barmasse opened a new route alone up the great pillar located on the SouthEast face of Matterhorn. No one prior Barmasse had climbed directly this overhanging wall.

March 2010
Matterhorn South Face – New route opened with his father Marco: The Barmasse Couloir.

January 2010 – February 2010
Pakistan Shimshal Valley. First ascent of several ice falls. Creation and execution of courses on safety and progression to porters (men and women) of Shimshal at the Shimshal Climbing School (school born from the collaboration of Qudrat, Simone Moro and Hervé Barmasse, with sponsorship by The North Face, Kong and Camp).

January 2009
Patagonia – Hielo Continental Sur – new traverse route from East to West on the third largest glacier on Earth.

September 2008
China – Miky Sel 6250 m. – First ascent of the mountain in Alpine Style.

July 2008 – August 2008
Pakistan – Beka Brakai Chhok, 6940m. – First ascent of the mountain in Alpin Style.

January 2008 – February 2008
Patagonia – Cerro Piergiorgio – First ascent of the West face: “La Ruta de lo Hermano”.

September 2007
Matterhorn – First solo ascent of the “Spigolo dei Fiori” route.

April 2007
Matterhorn – First solo ascent of the South Face of Matterhorn following the “Direttissima” route.

February – March 2006
Patagonia – Cerro San Lorenzo (3706 m) – New route on the north face: “Caffé Cortado” (ED, 1200 m)
Patagonia – Cerro Poincenot (3201 m)
Patagonia – Aguja Guillaumet (2571 m).

October 2005
Matterhorn – First solo ascent of the Deffeyes route in under four hours.

June- July 2005
Pakistan – Chogolisa Shield – New route: “Up and Down” (grade 6c/7a and A1, 800 m)
Pakistan – New mixed ice route on an unclimbed peak (5800m): “Fast and Furious” (700 m)
Pakistan – First complete solo ascent of an unclimbed peak (approx. 6000 m) on the Farol Peak ridge
Pakistan – Naysar Brakk (approx. 5200 m) via the “English Route”.

January 2005
Dent d’Herin – West Face – First ascent of the “Ammazza Geko” route (grade IV+/5, 800 m).

June 2004
Pakistan – Sheep Peak (6300 m) – new route
Pakistan – Chogolisa Shield (approx. 5700 m) – New alpine-style “Luna Caprese” route (grade 6c max, 1000 m).

March, 2004
Matterhorn – South Face – First winter repetition of the “Padre Pio Prega per Noi” route (grade 6c/7a max, 1000 m).

July, 2003
Pizzo Badile – South Face – New route: “Ringhio” (grade 6c obbl., 370 m).

February 2003
Dent d’Herin – West Face – First ascent of the “Petit Lumignon” route (grade IV/4, 800 m).

October 2002
Matterhorn – South Face – First solo ascent and third complete repetition of the “Casarotto-Grassi” route (ED, 1300 m).

October 2001
Breithorn (Monte Rosa Massif) – West Face – New mixed route: “Via del Freind” (ED, 600 m).

August, 2000
Matterhorn – South Face – New route: “Per Nio” (grade 6a+ obbl., 350 m).