China
First ascent of a 6,300 m untouched peak

July 2010

Among my several secret dreams, there had always been that of being able to gain the experience of the conquerors of the 14 highest mountains in the world. Those who more than fifty years ago, reached the peaks of these huge mountains, opening a new route up to the summit. With this purpose, I went on an expedition to China in 2010 together with Daniele Bernasconi and Mario Panzeri. We ventured to the north side of Karakorum, in order to attempt the ascent of the north face of Gasherbrum, which was a wall of ice and snow, never attempted before and therefore still untouched. It was a really fantastic goal but things did not go as well as we would have liked. The expedition was forced to stop even before the base camp, more than 50 km from the mountain, due to logistics problems. While waiting for an answer from the Chinese authorities, and without losing heart, considered the large number of unclimbed peaks in that area, we decided to ascend a 6,300m high untouched mountain. We left the base camp at an altitude of 400 meters, for a difficult peak with rocky frames and pinnacles which often created trouble for us, but finally we succeeded in reaching the untouched top, later named by us ‘Venere’ Peak.
The view from the top of this mountain overlooking Gasherbrum, Broad Peak and K2 was impressive and, for the first time we could take photos of the northern side of these mountains.