The new route on the South Face, the Couloir Barmasse

March 2010

Every time we got together, over a family dinner or just over a coffee, we ended up talking about the Matterhorn which for us Barmasses represents more than a mere mountain.
The Couloir dell’ Enjambee was often the main topic of our conversations. My father and Walter Cazzanelli were the first to attempt its ascent in 1986 but they had to turn back just a few hundred metres away from success. I couldn’t understand why despite so many attempts, nobody had yet succeeded in ascending the Couloir that Giancarlo Grassi had defined as ‘the last great logical ascent of mixed and ice in the western Alps.
It was over a family dinner that I suggested to my father that we could attempt the Couloir together.
It was a success; an extraordinary adventure lived with a special climbing partner and one of the most beautiful ascents of my life. The documentary ‘Linea Continua’ will be made out of this experience.