Matterhorn
First solo ascent of “Spigolo dei Fiori”

September 2007

I climbed this solo ascent always untied and with boots on, carrying two ropes with me in order to abseil the route “Padre Pio prega per tutti”. This is because once climbed the “Spigolo dei Fiori” I was going to keep on soloing also the route opened by Patrick Gabarrou and his partners. The same route that I had repeated with Massimo Farina in the previous winter. The abseiling would surely have been the fastest way to take me back to the base of the Matterhorn and thus start my enchainment.
Unfortunately after the solo ascent of the ‘Spigolo dei Fiori’, a stone dropped at close range from me and made me lose my concentration and perhaps even the courage to face a new climb in that style. When a rock fall misses you by an inch it is never a good omen. It is like a warning which gives you the opportunity to think over the risks and the dangers you are exposed to in the mountains, especially when soloing. It is very likely that a stone which hits you while you are climbing untied, will not let you survive and almost always leads you to a fatal fall. For this reason I decided not to go on that day. Sometimes it is better to accept things as they are.