First solo ascent of Deffeyes Route

September 2005

I have a look at some of my fathers slides and I see him with other guides climbing for the first time in winter the route Deffeyes, opened in 1942 by Carellino and called at that time Ǯthe hidden peakǯ, the fifth one on the Matterhorn.Actually, this line is nothing but a relief which rises from the very heart of the south face up to the stretch on to the normal route leading from Pic Tyndall to the top of Matterhorn. I was immediately tempted to solo that ascent. It took me less than four hours to reach, from the foot of the face, the route ending on the Lion ridge and I could already feel the north-west biting wind. It was for me a dream-like adventure, lived with only nature for company.