First solo ascent of South Face

April 2007

I felt I was ready. My past experiences in the mountains had made me grow up and now I was prepared to attempt the first solo on the south face of Matterhorn. Only a hindrance could have kept me at distance from that venture: being unable to take two days off from work. Luckily a client cancelled his ski lesson so I immediately seized the opportunity to make an attempt.
Even though I had decided to follow the route previously opened by my father with Walter Cazzanelli and Vittorio Detuoni in 1983, I did not ask him any useful information about the route and anyway, he was in Nepal at that time. Actually I did not want him to show me what I could have discovered by myself shortly after. When I started the ascent, my only thought was to reach the cross on the top before dusk. I got to the summit after about seven hours and I accidentally managed to ‘straighten’ the route opened by my father. I only took the wrong way! As a result I opened a three pitches variation in the very centre of the south face of Matterhorn.