First Winter ascent of Padre Pio Prega per tutti

February 2004

Massimo Farina has been the ideal partner for any ascent. He was always ready either the project was an icefall, a rocky route or a hard climb in the mountains. Just only a few words in order to arrange the time and the meeting place and we used to leave straight away. That day we set off to climb our first repeat and the first winter ascent of ‘Padre Pio’ on the south face of Matterhorn. We hadn’t any technical report about the route opened by P. Gabarrou and his partners in different stages, but we knew that we could climb the route in only one day, the start being at about an hour away from the lifts. Moreover, on the southern side of the ‘Grande Becca’, even on the wintry icy but windless days, it is possible to climb wearing only a shirt and the climbing shoes without suffering from the cold.