First attempt on Cerro Piergiorgio

January 2006

In January 2006, together with Gianluca Maspes, Yuri Parimbelli, Kurt Astner and Elijah Andreola, I set out on my first journey to Argentine Patagonia. We set ourselves the goal of establishing the first ascent on the west face of Cerro Piergiorgio, an impressive, almost 1000m high granite wall, overlooking the Cordon Marconi and the Hielo Continental Sur. We were going to follow the same route attempted by Luca Maspes and Maurizio Giordani in 1996: a logical line of cracks, corners and slabs on very good rock, which allowed a progression of free climbing and few steps in aid climbing. However, no sooner were we halfway than a large landslide broke loose and slid down the wall, hitting Maspes whilst filming us and Andreola who was following our climb from the ‘base camp’. Fortunately it only gave us a big fright and just for “suerte” neither of them was seriously injured, but it was just enough to make us change our plans and give up.
During the last five days at El Chalten we fell back on climbing the Pointcenot through the Williams route and Ghillamet through the Brenner route. But my experience in South America was not finished yet, as further north, other climbing partners have been waiting for me to attempt a new route on Cerro San Lorenzo.

via Willans e la Ghillamet per la via Brenner. La mia esperienza in Sud America non era ancora conclusa. Altri compagni mi aspettavano più a Nord per tentare una nuova via al Cerro San Lorenzo.